France Update #5

Well, we just finished the first week of our road trip and it has been more fun than a barrel of French monkeys! Our first stop was the town of Beaune in Burgundy and it's all about the wine! We started our visit with a self-guided tour of a wine cellar, in a place called Marche Au Vins. We bought the 15 samples tasting and that would explain the more than usual silly grin on my face, in the picture taken with Barry, where it looks like I am leaning on him because I am! The tour started in the cellar where there are long rows of barrels of aging wine and ended in the chapel which was built on top of the cellars years ago. One of the wines we tasted was from the chateau where we stayed, a Chateau de Chorey 2005 - it was a very good year!

We also toured l'Hotel-Dieu, a hospital built in the 15th century to serve the poor. It is famous for its brightly coloured tile roof and annual wine auction for charity. Most of the French historic buildings have audio tours and this one was very good in that it was narrated by actors taking on the role of the founding couple who explained the construction of the building, the acquisition of the substantial vineyards and the role of the nuns in caring for the sick.

It was grape picking time when we were there and I took some pictures of people just off the road. They toss the grapes into these sturdy plastic conical shaped buckets strapped to their backs. It looks like very hard, dirty work and they looked really tired and it was just mid morning.

The chateau B&B, where we stayed, was so picturesque. It dates back to the 17th century and the three dovecotes on the property go back to the 14th century. They are tall, conical shaped towers that were used to house  pigeons which carried not so instant messages back and forth to various towns and cities in the region. I can just hear the teachers back then - Jacques, I told you to put your pigeon back in your pocket. Now pay attention! You can carrier pigeon Marie at home tonight! We looked out our huge window onto a moat and Barry almost parked on top of the drawbridge!

Our next stop was Annecy, a town nestled in the foothills of the Alps next to a glacial fed lake. While we were waiting for our boat tour of the lake I met and was fascinated by a man who hand fed up to three birds. Note, the other birds waiting patiently in line for their turn.

 

Although the commentary was in French, the tour out on the water was great. The lake is large and surrounded by small towns with some fabulous hotels and homes.

I was really looking forward to eating raclettes in the Alps and we went to a place frequented by the locals. I expected the circular grill to melt the cheese but instead we got this massive hunk of cheese attached by picks to a half moon shaped metal arm. You then placed this long heated arm over it to melt the cheese and they gave you two different blades to scrape the melted cheese off. I loved it. Barry said it was very labour intensive!

The most photographed site in Annecy is the Palais de I'Isle, built in the 12th century as a castle and later used as a jail in the Middle Ages and even during WWII. Today it houses a history museum.

I think we are actually enjoying the road trip more than Paris but the driving is crazy along the twisty and turny roads, not just in the Alps but in the small towns and villages. I don't know how Barry does it. When I feel that our lives are in danger at any given moment I sing the song "sur la Pont D'Avignon". Needless to say we have started buying lozenges in bulk. The drive to our chalet in Chaminix was white knuckled, but subsequent drives made it seem like a walk in the park. We were upgraded from a tiny chalet that sleeps two to a "expensive beyond our wildest imagination" chalet that sleeps six. Below is Phillippe the kindly inn owner for the rich and famous and then the view out of our window. I can hear you, from here, yelling about horseshoes, Christina!

We had great weather the next day and took the cable car up the Alps for a view of Mont Blanc

at 14,000 feet. I don't know if Barry and I were dizzy because of the lack of oxygen or the absolute thrill of it all. We even filmed para gliders jumping off the peak where we were standing. 

These little specks are hikers on the peak below us.

I prefer the comfort of the railing! I also like a nice fondue at the end of a cold day. The chalet people suggested a traditional place that was like an alpine museum and according to Barry fondue is cheese without the work.

Next stop was the area of Provence and nearby regions. Fantastic B&B, called La Bastide Sainte Anne, run by a British couple. We had lovely breakfasts on the terrace with a view of the Pont du Gard, a 2000 year old Roman Aquaduct. You can see it in the distance. Barry and I quite enjoyed Amanda and Gary and their little pooches!

We explored Roman ruins in Saint Remy where the ruins of an ancient Roman settlement, called Gallum, are located.

A pretty well preserved colluseum and theatre are located in Arles. Barry couldn't resist taking to the stage and at the very moment he began his soliloquy, a ray of sunshine spot lit him. The gods? I'll let you decide.

Would the real ham please step forward?

It's all about the markets in Provence and they are shopping Meccas! We loved the Saturday market in Uzes and had a ball. I was in table linens heaven!

It makes for great people watching, too. This woman played the guitar and had tambourines strapped to her feet. The gentleman in the hat was photographed secretly by Barry and me and we later admitted to it. Barry felt sheepish because he never does that kind of thing but the man was so eccentric!

 The Sunday market at L'Isle-sur-la-sorgue is the mother of all markets and God Bless Rick Steves for publishing parking tips. I swear everyone in Provence was at this market. We bought a sculpture of ceramic olives attached to a metal leaf and branch that we just love. It was a lot of fun strolling through this town that is described as the Venice of France with the river and canals.

We visited the psychiatric hospital, in Saint Remy, where Vincent Van Gogh recovered after cutting off his ear. It is still a psychiatric hospital, with an amazing art program for the patients. Below is a sample of their work.

Van Gogh's room is on display, the spot where he looked out the window for the Starry Night and throughout the grounds are reproductions of his work placed in the spot where he found the subject. It is a very peaceful place.

Perhaps, the most moving exhibition of art that we have experienced on the trip was in les  Baux de Provence. Some genius had the idea to project famous works of art on gigantic walls in a former limestone quarry and set it to music. You wander through these huge halls and the art appears on the walls, sometimes partially animated and projected on the floors, as well. People standing in front of the walls appear as silhouettes. How this happens, I have no idea but it involves a massive number of projectors. It is called les Carrieres de Lumieres. It was "beyond belief beautiful"!

We had heard of this town called Roussillons that had these amazing ochre cliffs and so off we went to visit them yesterday. As luck would have it, we caught a rainbow when we were leaving.

I am grateful every single day that I can experience all of this. Hope you enjoy this week's pictures and adieu for now!